[Textile non-legacy fashion exploration]
Release date:[2021/4/14] A total of reading[381]time

Under the rapid development of modern industries, social production efficiency has rapidly improved, and people's life philosophy and consumption model have undergone profound changes. As the lyvangeration of traditional cultures for thousands of years, it seems to be with modern life. In the past, most of the hand-craving artificial arts produced by daily necessities have been replaced by machines, and the reality of the production of personalized industrial production. So, how do you have a modern lifestyle, high-tech harmonious symbiosis?


A fashion exploration of textile categories. As the most commonly used manual skills of traditional costumes in my country, in recent years, textiles, including weaving, dyeing, printing and embroidery, through innovative development model, integrating fashion brand, rich communication path, broadening industry boundary, etc., frequently occurring In people's field of view, they have been "pulled the grass" by many years, and the good market foundation is inheriting in the road to the ancient wisdom of fashion costumes in the Eastern charm, telling the road of regional stories.


Cross-domain cooperation: Injecting new kinetic energy for "non-legacy +"


In recent years, the Ministry of Culture and Tourism has vigorously implemented the development of China's outstanding traditional cultural inheritance. Under the relevant departments, colleges, enterprises, news media, industry associations, etc., my country's non-legacy protection in China is continuously in-depth, and the legal and regulatory system is gradually improved, protecting the inheritance mechanism effective operation, and activation practices are becoming more and more rich. Textile non-legacy as the tight skills associated with people's lives, is continuously involved in people's lives through the "non-legacy" "non-legacy + art" transfers.


As the original cultural department, the Ministry of Education, China's Intangible Cultural Heritage Inheritance, the first batch of pilot colleges, Beijing Fashion Academy has always focused on playing their own professional advantages, actively engaging in non-legacy protection and development, especially Chinese tradition Positive Exploration of Inheritance and Modern Application of Clothing Culture. Ni Sai Li, deputy secretary of the Party Committee of the Beijing Garment, introduced that in June 2017, the Beijing Clothing Institute and the Ministry of Culture signed a strategic cooperation agreement to carry out the guidance of the Ministry of Non-material Cultural Heritage, the Ministry of Culture, hosted by the Ministry of Culture. "Brand activities, promote the modern transformation and expression of textile category, and go on the fashion stage. In June 2018, the Beijing Clothing Institute and Culture and Tourism Department Gongfu Museum jointly established the traditional Chinese traditional process revitalization plan to cooperate with the innovation center, and fully utilize textile skills resources to build academic platforms, and constantly explore the integration of textile non-legacy and modern fashion life. New path.


Craft art and non-legacy have natural contacts. Ren Jianxin, Vice President of China Arts and Craft Society, has been, for many years, China's Arts and Crafts Society has actively participated in all kinds of non-legacy activities, starting from the perspective of professionalism, set up a weaving professional committee, an embroidered professional committee, and promoting the non-legacy development of textile. "China's Arts and Crafts Society has many national, provincial municipal masters, they actually have craftsman, so we should let the art and non-legacy bonuses, and cultivate outstanding cultural genes from the perspective of the non-legacy, with craft art The way is presented. "He said that the innovative development of textile categories needs to be injected into the art.


Multi-dimensional innovation: the change of the trend and the constant genetic


It is necessary to go into the way in the future and go to the future. "Clothing, food, live, travel" is headed, in recent years, textile is not integrated into the brand, build IP, introducing technology, traveling fashion, etc., multi-dimensional innovation model.


At the view of Li Wei, Professor Li Wei in Tsinghua University, the non-legacy project contains DNA of China's excellent traditional culture. "Many places in China, including national areas, all have a splendid cultural heritage, we have to find them, and learn from traditional cultural DNA, and innovate use." Li Wei said, using hemp or Li national brocade A garment is a material or a skill from the historical dimension, but it is necessary to make the non-protocol in the future, but also need to innovate from the perspective of art. As early as possible, Li Wei's series of works "New Middleware" was permanently collected by Victoria and Albert Museum in the UK, and began as a standing exhibit in the museum in November 2019. "New Middleware" gives a satin different thickness and texture, with Chinese painted blue and white, carefully cut into a modern style, reflecting her excavation and research of traditional Chinese culture in apparel design, with modern language interpretation The charm of traditional cultural innovation and development.


Fashion, innovation will eventually go to the brand. In D · Rita Jingxiu representative designers in Dan, the cultural gene is the brand "soul". She said: "There is no inheritance of traditional, innovation is no soul, and fashion innovation brands are difficult to open the market, and it is difficult to occupy the market."


Opening the market still has a large-scale production problem, but how does the non-legacy product quantify? "We used the imported digital machine Song Jin to question: 'How is this called Song Jin? Song Jin is hand-made.' So we find experts to analyze the veins, from the process, etc., the result is, The process did not change, and the chairman of Suzhou Hui Long Silk Technology Co., Ltd. said that over time, the textile equipment is constantly improving, but the process can not change, only this can inherit the cultural gene On the basis, innovation and development, promote the quantification of products, and go to the market. "I think the inheritance protection and innovation development is not contradictory, and the industrialization development should consider the current fashion trend. Static protection inheritance may not be able to accommodate time, and the living inheritance of the market will be able to promote non-legacy. "He says.


All media spread: display textile category is not legal


Affected by factors such as the age of non-legacy propagation subject - representative inheritance crowd, the non-legacy transfer work once entered the bottleneck. In recent years, under the common efforts of all walks of life, non-especially the textile non-legacy use various media, greatly expand the boundaries of communication work.


Ni Sai Li introduced that in 2014, Beijing Clothing College designed costumes for the APEC conference leaders, integrating Song Jin and other non-legacy elements into leader; in 2019, in the 70th anniversary of the National Day, more than 100,000 people are in the event. Chinese style costumes pass through Tiananmen Square, let the world have seen the charm of unique Chinese charm through large conferences and activities.


CCTV Financial Channel launched the "Fashion Master" in the second quarter of the Douban, 8.8 points, is a program with fashion designers, performing artworks, and trend culture people to create fashion works. "The program spreads with the semi-cultural form of young people, with deep Chinese excellent traditional culture, the program adheres to the creation and innovation of textile categories into domestic and foreign designers." "Fashion Master" Zou Lin Introduction, "Fashion Master" has produced more than 60 hot search in the second quarter of major media, and it has obtained 2.3 billion exposure. The information passed by this data is a means worth exploring and utilizing with a variety show as a carrier.


In these years, the Internet spread a lot of non-legacy inheritors, and the public also felt the unique charm of the non-legacy. But the information explosion era, the update iteration of hot topics is very rapid. Zhou Minyan, deputy director of Mango TV Integration Marketing Customization, said: "For non-legacy communication, just online hot topics are far less, but also understand the psychology of young people by understanding young people. Their needs and aesthetics, build non-legacy IP, let it go to the public in a more vital and continuation. "


Film and television costumes integrating Chinese traditional skills are not lost as an effective transmission path. "As of now, we use film and television and clothing to hold more than 20 exhibitions around the world, hoping to continue TV drama brand in the form of exhibitions, attracting young people to pay attention to non-legacy." The founder of a movie company said that the future will be fully adequate Use non-hevitalized elements to restore non-legacy in life.

Therefore, representative apparel seeking the Chinese nation is very important. What is the style of the representative apparel of the Chinese nation?


People contacting the outside world is through substances, and rarely see the non-material nature contained in substances. When people wear clothes, I will hardly think about how clothes do, what materials and skills are used. As the Great Wall of the substance object, everyone said that it is Qin Shihuang, but is Qin Shi Emperor moving a brick? People ignore this very important non-material connotation.


In the past 20 years, people have recognized the relationship between substances and non-material, and began to pay attention to the protection of non-material. In this process, over-emphasizes the intangible connotation, which has enabled us to another extreme: throwing the substance.


Therefore, we should look at the style positioning of the Chinese nation's representative apparel with a holistic concept. For example, when you look at the fashion show, we must see both costumes, but also to see the stories behind the clothing, including design, production, process, and consumption. I think, from this sense, the Chinese national costume containing many non-skillful arts is not only costumes, but also the carrier of the Chinese national wisdom and charm.


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